Sanur Beach, Bali, late afternoon, dreamlike in the heat. The kites can be heard from a mile off. Teams of 70 to 80 — flyers, flag bearers, and their own gamelan band — raise the Bebean, Janggan, and Pecukan: giant traditional kites shaped like fish, birds, and leaves, in the festival's traditional red, white, and black. Children and families wait on the sand, sheltering from the heat beneath the kites, holding the long lines that keep them aloft. Listen for the kites thrumming and their metal clanging in the wind, gamelan carrying from a distance, and announcers' voices over the crowd.